January 21, 2012
I really like this work jacket but I was wondering if I should post images of it. I thought that in photos the dark indigo cotton cloth too murkily masks the subtle details of the jacket: the details are easier to see in person.
The coat is densely stitched with tiny stitches of dark blue threads on a dark blue background. In photos this is a bit lost, but in daylight, when standing in front of the piece, this detail is beautifully evident.
In the photos posted here, any slight undulation to the surface of the coat is due to the countless stitches which hold the two or three layers of cotton cloth together, making this a durable, warm garment.
Add to that, the cloth on the exterior of the garment is something special, it’s referred to as mosquito kasuri or kagasuri: the intersections of white, resisted areas of the warp and weft yarns are as tiny as mosquitoes. Imagine the great skill needed to weave such a delicate pattern.
The interior of the coat, below, with its lighter color, shows a bit more evidence of the coat’s stitching–and many hand tied knots can be seen.
The lining, too, is of kagasuri–and the entire coat is made of recycled cloth.
When looking at the coat head-on, as in the first photo shown, above, the bold placement of the central patch on the back of the jacket is a visual treat, and is one of the things that tempted me to acquire this softspoken beauty. And the color, the rich, sapphire blue was hard to resist.
Most likely this dates to the early-to-middle part of the 20th century and measures 44″ x 49″ or 112 x 124.5 cm.
In: Tags: boro, kasuri, sashiko
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November 6, 2011
The exhibition at the Portland Japanese Garden, Mottainai, The Fabric of Life: Lessons in Frugality from Traditional Japan opened on 4 November. Here are some installation shots.
I’m exhibiting with my friend, Kei Kawasaki of Gallery Kei in Kyoto. Kei and I decided that I would show indigo dyed cotton boro pieces and she would show bast fiber and paper pieces. The items I have contributed to the show can be seen below.
Above and below is a large, woven cotton boro mosquito netting or kaya.
Above and below are sashiko stitched pieces. Centrally place above is a large, sashiko stitched kotatugake. To the left and right are garments from Yamagata prefecture.
Stitched aprons and zokin can be seen above.
Above and below are sakiori garments.
Above is pictured a boro yogi or sleeping kimono, while below you can see noragi or work coats.
Below is a fantastic boro futonji or futon cover.
This piece, below, a shinafu or linden fiber tsunobukuro or horn bag is filled with balls of shredded indigo dyed cotton yarn and twisted paper yarn. Kei brought this to the show to act as a transition between her bast fiber textiles and my indigo dyed cotton ones. It’s an amazing object. Kei’s other textiles can be seen in the images below.
Above and below are some woven paper garments. On the photo, above, situated on the right is an okuso zakkuri or a coat made of woven hemp waste. Below, seen in the middle, is a fujifu or woven wisteria garment and a shinafu or linden fiber garment to its left.
Below are two elm fiber garments: to the right is a traditional Ainu attush, to the left is an unusual dochugi or traveling coat, made from ohyo or elm fiber. Since this dochugi is made from traditional Ainu cloth, we can assume that the cloth was traded with the Ainu by a merchant from Honsu island.
A marvelous, resist dyed ramie kazuki from Yamagata prefecture can be seen above and below. A kazuki is a kimono-shaped veil which was worn on the head by upper class women.
Below are repurposed paper items.
A splendid bashofu or banana fiber kimono from Okinawa can be seen below.
All of the pieces are for sale through the Portland Japanese Garden. If any are interesting to you, please let me know and I will put you in touch with the Garden.
In: Tags: asa, bashofu, benibana, boro, kasuri, katazome, kaya, komebukuro, noragi, sakiori, sashiko, shifu, temari, tsunobukuro, yogi, zanshi, zokin
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