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An Extraordinary Sakiori Hanten: Hemp Warp, Cotton Weft, Sashiko Stitched Sleeves

Written on January 26, 2011

This sakiori hanten has it all: indigo cotton rag weft, hemp warp, great condition, nice proportions, good mending– and a fine, old age.   These characteristics make for a grade A sakiori garment.What sends it over the top, however, are the asagi (pale blue) cotton sleeves which are densely sashiko stitched and so worn that the stitches seem embedded in the fibers of the cloth.Isn’t this sleeve, below, a thing of beauty?  The color, the texture, the patina, the wear–and when paired with the coat itself, it looks even better.It’s interesting that such “fancy” sleeves were attached to such a hardy work coat.  Sleeves were put on and taken off coats during their lifetime, but these seem as if they were attached to this coat for a very long time.   Unless, of course, they were taken from another garment and affixed to this one at some point.  This is highly possible.Since the sleeves ARE so fancy, it has me wondering if this garment was worn by a rural person to go to town or on special occasions.In my estimation, if you are looking for a superb sakiori garment, you’d want to see a bast warp, an indigo cotton rag weft and you’ll want it to have some age.  It has to be in good condition, of course.Sakiori garments are difficult place in time: they were worn from the late eighteenth century well into the mid twentieth century, so one needs to use conjecture to date such garments.  Unless, of course, you are given some kind of history from the family who owned the garment.   This is not the case with this one, though.  I’d guess this to be from the 1930s or so.  It may be older; it may be younger.  There’s just no way of zeroing in on an exact date in this case.It measures 117 cm x 112 cm or 46″ x 44″.

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3 Comments

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  1. Pingback from An Extraordinary Sakiori Hanten: Hemp Warp, Cotton Weft, Sashiko … | The Hemp Network News:

    [...] posted here: An Extraordinary Sakiori Hanten: Hemp Warp, Cotton Weft, Sashiko … Filed Under: Hemp News Tagged With: [...]

    January 27, 2011 @ 12:38 am

  2. Comment by Jean Betts:

    –exquisite, I’ve never seen such a beautiful combination. I’ve woven sakiori and stitched sashiko. This is truley a treasure

    January 28, 2011 @ 9:42 pm

  3. Comment by Faith:

    You wouldn’t happen to know what the name of that sashiko stitch is? I love how it looks like little flowers!

    ~F

    April 21, 2014 @ 7:26 pm

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