Today I am sharing some fascinating information on Punjabi phulkari and bagh as researched and presented by Frederic Rond of Indian Heritage Gallery which is located in the heart of Paris.  Frederic Rond is passionate about Indian art and culture, as can be seen by visiting his website and reading his research: Indian Heritage Gallery presents tribal and classical works from India and the Himalayas and shows both objects and textiles.

Frederic sent me the link to his website where he launched a new page showing his research on phulkari: what a boon to us who love Indian textiles.   I think we can all benefit from Frederic’s thoughtful and precise text and the marvelous historical photos that serve to illustrate his words. Enjoy viewing these images of phulkari and bagh from Indian Heritage Gallery:  these beautifully shimmering textiles  were produced by hand embroidering silk floss onto a hand spun and hand woven cotton base.  Thread counting is the basis for the embroidered patterns.Some of the more elaborate works, such as these, are like a length of supple, woven gold.Rond writes about phulkari, “Phulkari, a rural tradition of handmade embroidery, literally meaning ” flower work ,” was perpetuated by the women of Punjab (North-west India & Pakistan) during the 19th century and till the beginning of the 20th century.” 

Rond continues, “Generally fabricated by a family for its own use, the fact of having completed a phulkari signified an important step for a girl on her way to becoming a woman.   Techniques and patterns were not documented but transmitted by word of mouth.  Hence, each regional group was identifiable by its unique embroidery work.  The word phulkari usually indicates the shawl that was loomed and embroidered to cover women’s heads or to be displayed in the gurudwara (Sikh temple.)”

Today I’m showing something beautiful and unusual: it’s an asa or hemp sleeveless hanten (work coat) that has been patched and mended with scraps of tenugui. Tenugui are thin, cotton “towels”: they are made from a simple, unfinished length of cotton and imprinted with designs.  Tenugui are sometimes given as gifts by businesses to clients, so the business name or some image associated with it will be stenciled on the tenugui.  Tenugui are also sold at tourist destinations as a souvenir of the place.  Tenugui are ubiquitous in Japan.This hanten, which probably dates to the mid-twentieth century, is lavishly patched with tenugui pieces on the front, back, and inside of the coat.Each angle of this coat is excellent.  The back is good; the front is good; the inside is good.  I’m just showing front and back, which I think have a lot of appeal.